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Each of the four half-moon-shaped ravioli, crimped around the edges into undulating ruffles and glossed tawny with balsamic butter, is topped with what looks like a white paper cutout of a tiny tree.
They are, in fact, cross-sections of a raw cauliflower florette.
And they're sheared so razor-thin they crack at the slightest bite, making way for the even more delicate crunch of toasted slivered almonds, and then the silky snap of a pasta skin luxuriously rich with eggs. There were lumachelle, a toothy house-extruded semolina pasta shaped like billowy elbow tubes that cradled zesty all'Amatriciana sauce inside, giving little bursts of red sauce scented with bacony guanciale, marjoram, and chili-flake heat.
Inside those dumplings, meanwhile, is a soft pillow of roasty cauliflower puree, bound with creamy Parmesan and peppery Percorino. There were little puffs of potato gnocchi basking in wild boar ragu, whose gamy meat was tempered by sweet cubes of cast-iron-blistered apples.
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